Why Are All of My Taps Dripping?

A single dripping tap is annoying. All your taps dripping at once is a red flag that something bigger is going on with your plumbing system. Beyond the noise, drips waste water, raise utility bills, stain fixtures, and can point to pressure or temperature issues that shorten the life of every valve and appliance you own.

If you’re in this boat, here’s a clear, actionable guide to the most common causes, quick checks you can do, and when to call A1 Best Plumbing. When you need fast, reliable help, our Long Beach Plumber will diagnose the root cause and fix it right the first time.Quick takeaways

• If every faucet drips, you likely have a system-level issue: high water pressure, thermal expansion from your water heater, a failing pressure-reducing valve (PRV), or sediment throughout the lines.
• If only certain taps drip, local issues like worn cartridges, washers, O-rings, or corroded valve seats are to blame.
• Drips that happen only on the hot side often point to water heater temperature or expansion problems.
• The fix may be as simple as a new cartridge—or as important as installing or adjusting a PRV or expansion tank. A1 Best Plumbing, your Long Beach Plumber, can test and correct both fixture and whole-home issues.

Why taps drip in the first place Inside every faucet is a mechanism that seals water off when you close the handle. Over time, those sealing surfaces wear out or get contaminated.

Common faucet-level causes

• Worn washers or O-rings: Compression faucets rely on rubber washers that harden and groove over time.
• Damaged cartridges or ceramic discs: Single-handle and many modern faucets use cartridges; minerals and debris can chip or score them.
• Corroded valve seats: The metal seat the washer presses against can pit, preventing a tight seal.
• Loose packing nuts: Handle-area seepage can appear as a drip at the spout or base.
• Mineral scale: Hard water deposits prevent components from sealing fully.

System-level causes that make all taps drip

• High static water pressure: Anything consistently above ~80 psi can force water past faucet seals. Ideal residential range is about 50–70 psi.
• Failing PRV: If your home has a PRV (common in Long Beach), it may be stuck or set too high, leading to drips and noisy plumbing.
• Thermal expansion: When water heats in a closed system, pressure rises. Without a properly sized, pressurized expansion tank, that spike shows up as dripping hot-side taps or a weeping water heater relief valve.
• Sediment and debris: After municipal work or from an older water heater, grit can lodge in cartridges across multiple fixtures, causing simultaneous drips.
• Water hammer and pressure spikes: Sudden stops in flow can damage internal seals, especially if arrestors are missing.

Simple checks you can do today

• Is it all fixtures or just a few? If every faucet, shower, and even outside hose bibs drip, think pressure, PRV, or expansion. If it’s just one or two, focus on those faucets’ internal parts.

• Hot vs. cold Close only the cold supply to a dripping faucet and observe. If the drip stops, the cold side is the culprit; if it continues, the hot side is suspect. If most drips involve hot water, look to the water heater temperature setting, expansion tank, or a failing check valve on a recirculation system.

• Listen to the water heater Telltale signs of sediment include popping or rumbling noises. Also check the temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve; if it’s weeping, you likely have high pressure or thermal expansion.

• Measure your pressure A simple gauge that screws to a hose bib costs little and tells you a lot. Static pressure above 75–80 psi suggests your PRV needs adjustment or replacement. Watch the needle over a few hours; if it creeps upward without water running, thermal expansion is likely.

• Look for recent changes Did the city perform water main work? Did you install a new water heater without an expansion tank? Did a whole-house filter or softener just get serviced? Any of these can trigger widespread drips.

Fixes for individual dripping taps

• Clean and replace wear parts Remove the handle and cartridge or stem per the manufacturer’s guide. Inspect O-rings, seats, and cartridges for grooves or chips. Replace with OEM parts for best fit and longevity.

• Reseat the valve seat If your faucet uses a compression stem and the seat is pitted, use a seat wrench to replace it or a reseating tool to smooth it.

• Descale components Soak mineral-crusted parts in white vinegar, rinse, and reassemble. Replace aerators if flow is erratic or splattery.

• Replace old shutoff valves Sticky, half-closed angle stops under the sink can cause drips or weak shutoff. New quarter-turn valves provide better control and reliability.

Whole-home corrections when all taps drip

• Adjust or replace the PRV If pressure is too high, a Long Beach Plumber from A1 Best Plumbing can adjust your PRV to a safe range or install a new one if the diaphragm has failed.

• Add or recharge an expansion tank For closed systems, a properly sized expansion tank, precharged to match your water pressure, absorbs thermal expansion and prevents hot-side drips and T&P valve discharge.

• Flush the water heater Annual flushing reduces sediment that can migrate to cartridges and seats. If the tank is heavily scaled, professional service or replacement may be the smarter choice.

• Install sediment filtration A simple whole-house sediment filter protects valves, cartridges, and appliances from grit after main line work or in older galvanized systems.

• Address water hammer Install or service water hammer arrestors on quick-closing fixtures (dishwashers, washing machines) to protect seals.

• Consider a targeted repipe If you have aging galvanized pipes with heavy internal corrosion, widespread leaks and drips may persist until sections are replaced.

Why Fast Action Matters

A single dripping tap can waste more than 1,000 gallons a year. Multiply that by multiple fixtures and the cost adds up quickly. High pressure and thermal expansion don’t just cause drips—they stress appliances, flexible supply lines, and water heater components, increasing the risk of bigger leaks.

A1 Best Plumbing can quickly pinpoint whether you’re dealing with fixture wear or a system issue. Our Long Beach Plumber arrives with gauges, OEM parts, PRVs, expansion tanks, and filtration solutions to deliver same-day answers and long-term fixes.Prevention tips to keep taps drip-free

• Maintain proper pressure: Test annually; set your PRV to 50–70 psi.
• Control temperature: Keep the water heater at about 120°F to reduce expansion and scald risk.
• Service the expansion tank: Check the precharge yearly with the water off and the system depressurized.
• Flush the water heater: Once a year to minimize sediment.
• Clean aerators: Every few months, especially in hard-water areas.
• Replace supply lines: Upgrade to braided stainless every 5–7 years.
• Use quality parts: OEM cartridges and seats seal better and last longer.

When to call A1 Best Plumbing

• Every tap in the home is dripping or you see pressure above 75–80 psi.
• Hot-side drips are widespread, your T&P valve weeps, or you lack an expansion tank.
• You recently replaced a water heater and now multiple taps drip.
• Dripping returns soon after DIY repairs.
• You have older galvanized or mixed piping and recurring sediment issues.

As your trusted Long Beach Plumber, A1 Best Plumbing provides thorough diagnostics, transparent options, and durable repairs. We’ll verify system pressure, inspect the PRV and expansion tank, flush sediment as needed, and repair or replace faucets with quality components so the problem stays solved.

FAQs

Why do my taps drip more at night?

Municipal demand drops overnight, so static pressure can rise—especially if your PRV is set too high or failing. Thermal expansion after the evening hot water cycle can also spike pressure.

Can a new faucet still drip?

Yes, if system pressure is excessive or debris gets into the new cartridge during installation. Always address pressure and flush lines.

Will replacing the aerator stop a drip?

No. Aerators affect flow, not the internal seal. You need to repair the cartridge, washer, or seat causing the leak—or fix system pressure.

How much water am I wasting?

Even a slow drip can waste 3–5 gallons per day per faucet. Multiple drips add up to hundreds of gallons a month.

Ready to stop the drips? Get expert help from A1 Best Plumbing. Our Long Beach Plumber will diagnose the cause, correct system pressure, service your water heater and expansion tank if needed, and repair or replace any leaking faucets. One visit, clear answers, lasting results.