Why Is My Kitchen Faucet Losing Pressure?

Low water pressure at the kitchen sink is frustrating—especially when you’re cooking, cleaning, or filling pots in a hurry. The good news: most causes are simple and fixable with a little troubleshooting. The key is to find out if the issue is isolated to the faucet or part of a bigger plumbing problem. Here’s how to diagnose and fix kitchen faucet pressure issues, plus when to call A1 Best Plumbing. If you’d like fast, professional help, our Long Beach Plumber can be at your door with the right tools and parts.Quick takeaways

• Most kitchen faucet pressure problems are caused by a clogged aerator, stuck shutoff valve, dirty cartridge, kinked hose, or a fouled diverter in the spray head.
• If only the hot side is weak, look at the water heater, hot-side shutoff, or sediment in the hot supply line.
• If all fixtures have low pressure, it could be a pressure regulator, whole-house filter, or municipal supply issue.
• When in doubt, our Long Beach Plumber can diagnose the exact cause and fix it on the spot.

Step-by-step diagnosis you can do in minutes

1. Compare other fixtures

• Check a bathroom faucet or tub. If they’re strong and only the kitchen is weak, the issue is local to the faucet.
• If everything is weak, you may have a main supply, pressure regulator, or whole-house filter problem.

2. Test hot vs. cold

• Run cold, then hot. If only hot is weak, suspect the water heater, the hot shutoff valve under the sink, or hot-side sediment.
• If both are weak, focus on the aerator, spray head, diverter, cartridge, or both shutoff valves.

3. Inspect and clean the aerator

• Unscrew the tip of the faucet spout. Mineral scale, sand, or rust can clog the screen.
• Rinse the parts and soak them in white vinegar for 20–30 minutes. Reassemble and test.
• If pressure improves, you’ve solved it. If not, keep going.

4. Check the shutoff (angle stop) valves

• Under the sink, turn both hot and cold valves fully counterclockwise to open. Partially closed or stuck valves restrict flow.
• If handles spin but don’t open, the stems may be worn and need replacement.

5. Look at the pull-down hose and spray head

• Make sure the counterweight isn’t catching on plumbing or the cabinet wall.
• Inspect the hose for kinks or sharp bends.
• Unscrew the spray head and test flow from the hose alone. Good flow from the hose means the spray head or its internal screen/diverter is clogged.

6. Clean or replace the diverter and cartridge

• Inside many kitchen faucets, the diverter directs water between the spout and spray head. When clogged, you’ll get weak flow or sputtering.
• The cartridge regulates flow and mixing. Mineral buildup here can cut pressure dramatically.
• If you’re handy, shut off water, disassemble per the manufacturer’s instructions, and soak parts in vinegar. Otherwise, call our Long Beach Plumber for a fast cartridge or diverter swap.

7. Inspect supply lines for debris or blockage

• Flexible braided lines can clog at the small inlet screens. With water off, disconnect at the faucet end and check for grit or shredded rubber.
• Briefly flush lines into a bucket to clear debris before reconnecting.

8. Check for leaks under the sink

• A slow leak or a pinhole can reduce pressure and make a mess. Look for moisture on the cabinet floor, green or white mineral trails, or swollen wood.

9. Consider whole-home issues

• Pressure-reducing valve (PRV). If faucets across your home are weak, the PRV near your main shutoff may be failing or set too low.
• Whole-house filter or softener. A clogged sediment filter or resin issue can starve fixtures. Replace filters and test in bypass mode.
• Municipal supply. Ask neighbors if they notice low pressure at peak hours. A simple pressure test can confirm.

10. Water heater red flags (for hot-side issues)

• Sediment buildup reduces hot water flow. Listen for rumbling or popping from the tank.
• A broken dip tube can cause temperature and pressure inconsistencies.
• Flushing the water heater yearly helps. If you’re unsure, A1 Best Plumbing can flush the tank and restore performance.

Common causes and the fix

• Clogged aerator or spray head: Clean or replace. This is the most frequent culprit.
• Partially closed or failing shutoff valve: Open fully or replace the valve.
• Dirty diverter: Remove and clean; replace if worn.
• Worn or scaled cartridge: Replace with the correct OEM part for your faucet model.
• Kinked pull-down hose: Reroute, replace the hose, and adjust the counterweight.
• Sediment from aging pipes or heater: Flush lines, add a sediment filter, and flush the water heater.
• Failing PRV or clogged whole-house filter: Adjust/replace PRV; replace filters.
• Corroded galvanized piping: If your home has old galvanized lines, internal corrosion can choke flow. A partial or whole-home repipe may be the long-term solution.

When to call a professional

• You’ve cleaned the aerator and spray head but pressure is still weak.
• Shutoff valves are stuck, leaking, or won’t fully open.
• The faucet leaks after reassembly or the cartridge is seized.
• Low pressure affects multiple fixtures or both hot and cold across the home.
• You suspect galvanized piping or see rust flakes and discolored water.
• There’s water damage under the sink or you smell mildew.

A1 Best Plumbing can quickly isolate whether the problem is at the fixture, under the sink, or in your supply system. Our Long Beach Plumber carries OEM cartridges, valves, hoses, and PRVs for common brands, so most repairs are completed in one visit.How our Long Beach Plumber solves low kitchen faucet pressure

• Comprehensive testing: We measure static and dynamic water pressure, compare hot vs. cold flow, and test with and without the spray head to pinpoint the restriction.
• Precision cleaning and parts replacement: We service or replace aerators, cartridges, diverters, shutoff valves, hoses, and supply lines with quality parts.
• System-level fixes: If needed, we adjust or replace your PRV, swap clogged filters, flush your water heater, or recommend filtration to protect fixtures.
• Honest options: If your faucet is beyond its service life or parts are discontinued, we’ll present repair vs. replace options that match your budget and style.

Prevention tips to keep pressure strong

• Clean aerators and spray head screens every 3–6 months, especially in hard water areas.
• Flush the water heater annually to reduce sediment entering fixtures.
• Replace under-sink supply lines every 5–7 years; use braided stainless lines.
• Add a sediment pre-filter if you notice frequent debris clogs.
• Keep household water pressure between 50–70 psi. Too high damages fixtures; too low feels weak. We can install a pressure gauge and tune your PRV.
• Open and close shutoff valves a couple of times a year to prevent them from seizing.

FAQs

Why is only my hot water weak at the kitchen sink?

Likely sediment from the water heater, a partly closed hot shutoff, or a clogged hot-side cartridge port. Compare with another hot fixture to confirm.

My pull-down sprayer has strong spray but weak stream at the spout. Why?

The diverter may be stuck, prioritizing the spray head. Cleaning or replacing the diverter usually restores balanced flow.

Will a new faucet fix low pressure?

If the restriction is inside the faucet (cartridge, diverter, aerator), replacing the faucet will help. If the problem is in the shutoff valves, supply lines, or PRV, you’ll need to address those first.

Can hard water cause low pressure?

Yes. Mineral scale accumulates in aerators, cartridges, and spray heads. Regular descaling and, if desired, a conditioning system can help.

Ready for hassle-free water pressure?

If kitchen tasks are taking twice as long because your faucet is dribbling, it’s time to get answers. Contact A1 Best Plumbing. Our Long Beach Plumber will troubleshoot, fix the root cause, and get your kitchen flowing like it should—often in a single visit. We proudly serve Long Beach and nearby communities including Belmont Shore, Naples, Bixby Knolls, Signal Hill, Lakewood, Los Alamitos, and Seal Beach.