That constant trickling or hissing sound from your toilet isn’t just annoying – it’s a sign of wasted water and money literally going down the drain. A running toilet can waste hundreds of gallons of water per day, significantly increasing your water bill. The good news?
A majority of Long Beach Plumbers will tell you that most causes of a running toilet are relatively simple and inexpensive to fix yourself, often requiring no special tools.Before you start, locate the water supply valve, usually found on the wall or floor behind the toilet. Turn this valve clockwise to shut off the water supply. Then, flush the toilet to empty the tank. Now, let’s diagnose the problem:
Common Causes and Fixes for a Running Toilet
- The Flapper Isn’t Sealing: This is the most frequent culprit. The flapper is the rubber (or plastic) piece at the bottom of the tank that lifts when you flush and seals the opening afterwards. If it’s worn, cracked, warped, or dirty, it won’t create a proper seal, allowing water to constantly leak into the bowl.
- Diagnosis: Put a few drops of food coloring into the tank water. Wait 15-20 minutes without flushing. If colored water appears in the bowl, the flapper is leaking.
- Fix: Replacing the flapper is easy. Unhook the old one from the overflow pipe pegs and the chain. Take the old flapper to the hardware store to ensure you buy the correct replacement type. Install the new flapper by clipping it onto the pegs and connecting the chain.
- The Float is Set Too High (or Malfunctioning): The float tells the fill valve when to stop filling the tank. If the float is set too high, the water level rises above the overflow tube, constantly draining excess water. Older toilets have a ball float on an arm; newer ones often have a cup-style float around the fill valve shaft.
- Diagnosis: Observe the water level in the tank after it refills. Is it spilling into the overflow tube?
- Fix: For ball floats, gently bend the float arm downwards slightly. For cup floats, there’s usually an adjustment screw or clip on the fill valve to lower the float position. If a ball float seems heavy, it might be waterlogged and need replacement.
- The Refill Tube is Too Long: This small tube runs from the fill valve to the overflow pipe. If it’s pushed too far down inside the overflow pipe (below the tank’s water level), it can siphon water out of the tank.
- Fix: Ensure the end of the refill tube is positioned above the water line, usually clipped to the top of the overflow pipe. Trim it if necessary, but don’t remove it – it’s needed to refill the bowl after flushing.
- The Chain is Kinked or the Wrong Length: The chain connects the flush handle lever to the flapper. If it’s too short, the flapper won’t seal. If it’s too long or kinked, it can get caught under the flapper, preventing a seal.
- Fix: Adjust the chain length so there’s only slight slack when the flapper is closed. Untangle any kinks.
- The Fill Valve is Worn Out: If water continues to run even after adjusting the float, and the flapper isn’t leaking, the fill valve itself might be worn out and need replacement. Replacing a fill valve is a bit more involved but still a manageable DIY task for many.
Conclusion
Fixing a running toilet is often a simple DIY project that can save you significant amounts of water and money. By checking the flapper, float, chain, and refill tube, you can usually identify and fix the issue quickly. Don’t let that running sound drain your wallet – tackle it today! If these steps don’t work, or you’re uncomfortable performing the repair, it’s time to call a qualified Long Beach Plumber.